That. Right. There.

It shouldn’t be easier to save a JPEG out of Photoshop than it is out of Lightroom (but it’s WAY easier for new and casual users to save as JPEG in Photoshop). When you choose “Save as JPEG” it should bring up a simple window like this (a simpllifed version of Photoshop’s JPEG window).

It should also automatically convert the color space from ProPhoto RGB to sRGB, since they’re most likely to saving as a JPEG to share the image on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, or emailing or texting it to someone. If they need a different color space, then they have to learn how to use the existing Export window, with its long list of options (which are helpful, if that’s what you need, but most folks exporting their images out don’t need all that stuff).

So, in short, if Adobe can add this feature (which doesn’t require AI or any engineering wizardry since the ability to save an image as a JPEG is already in Lightroom), it will help more people than they know.

Have a great weekend, everybody!

-Scott

P.S. I’m one of the instructors at the On1 Landscape Photography Conference coming up next month. Some pretty incredible courses at the two-day online conference, including lots of shooting and post-processing sessions. More details at kelbyonelive.com – get your ticket now and save a bunch!

The post Lightroom Just Got Even Better…But It Still Needs This. appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

• Duplicate the original background layer
• Rename the duplicated layer
• Hide the original layer
• Create a second view of the photo at 100% alongside another view of the photo that shows the entire image

This way I can start retouching the duplicated layer at 100% while simultaneously seeing how it affects the photo when zoomed out. Nothing life changing, just a few simple steps that can be done with the click of an action. This can be used the more traditional route of using the Edit in Photoshop command from LrC to send a copy to Photoshop. Once the photo opens in Ps, I’d simply run the action (press the Play button in the Action panel) and then start editing. To take it to the next level I’d create a droplet from that action. Here’s how:

Step One: In Photoshop, go to File > Automate > Create Droplet to open the Create Droplet dialog box.

Step Two: Click Choose to configure where you want your droplet to be saved (I have a designated folder in Dropbox for all actions and droplets) and give the droplet a name.

Step Three: In the Play section, choose the Action set containing your action, then in the Action section, select the action you want to be made into a droplet.

Step Four: Configure other options as needed based on what your action does (or doesn’t do). For this action, I don’t need to configure any other options, so I just clicked OK to create the droplet in the designated location.

Now that you have your droplet, you need to put it in a special folder in order for it to appear on the Export dialog in LrC. Here’s how:

Step One: Select any photo in LrC and click the Export button to open the Export dialog (we’re not going to export a copy of this photo, so anyone will do).

Step Two: On the Export dialog, in the Post-Processing panel, click the After Export drop-down menu and choose Go to Export Actions Folder Now to open this special folder in your system’s file browser (Finder/Explorer).

Step Three: Copy or move the droplet file from where you saved it when created to the Export Actions folder. Back in LrC, click Done to close the Export dialog without exporting.

That’s it. The next time you click the After Export drop-down menu you’ll see your droplet as an option below Open in Other Application. Just select it to have the exported copies run through the droplet. Note, if you get an error on Mac about the droplet being damaged when running the droplet, here’s the solution. I’d love to hear what kind of actions/droplets you use in this workflow.

The post Creating Droplets to Run on Export appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

If you’ve experienced this, the problem is not with your droplet, but with the OS. Here’s how to fix it:

Step One: Cancel out of that error message if still visible.

Step Two: Go to the folder where the droplet is located and right-click (ctrl-click) and choose Open.

Step Three: You’ll see that same error message again, but click Open. Nothing should happen.

Step Four: Quit the droplet (via the Menu bar).

Step Five: Re-run your export with the droplet as part of the export in the Post-Processing section and it should run without error.

I’m afraid you’ll have to do that for each droplet you have, but hopefully the issue will get fixed soon and be a thing of the past. Hope that helps anyone in the situation I was in that inspired this post.

The post Mac Ventura Bug Affecting Droplets appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

STEP ONE: Select the images you want to post as proofs, and then go under LIghtroom’s File Menu and choose Export. When the Export window appears, turn on the checkbox for “Watermark” and the choose your watermark (if you saved one already), or choose Edit Watermarks to add a custom one (using a graphic, like your logo), or a text watermark.

STEP TWO: If you choose ‘Edit Watermarks, ‘ you will see the Watermark Editor window above. In this case, I’m going to import my logo, so at the top left, I chose “Graphic” for Watermark Style. If you don’t want to import a graphic, then choose “Text” up there, and then format your text (font, size, and position) under the Watermark Effects selection, then click Save to have your watermark applied to all the images you selected for Export. Now hit the Export button to export your images to a folder on your computer.

Above: Here are the images saved to my computer with the Watermark in the center of each image.

STEP THREE: Now you’re going to re-import these images into Lightroom, and you can choose to import them directly into a new collection (click the + sign in the list of Collections on the right side), and when the Create Collection dialog appears, turn on the checkbox for “Sync with Lightroom.”

That’s it. Now you’re ready to follow Monday’s tutorial, and all the images you post for proofing now have your watermark. Yes, it’s a few more steps, but if it keeps your customers from screen capturing or downloading the images from your shoot without paying for them, this extra step might be totally worth it.

Have a great weekend, everybody.

-Scott

P.S. The iPhone Photography Conference is next week. Over 1,000 photographers will be learning some incredible iPhone photography techniques – don’t miss out on this Itwo-day, two-track event with some of the best iPhone instructors out there! Tickets and more details at kelbyonelive.com

The post How to Watermark Images For Online Proofing (follow-up to Monday’s post) appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Luckily, it is possible to create a similar output, though not as pretty, using an export plug-in for Lightroom Classic. The name of the plug-in is LR/Mogrify 2, and it can be found (along with many other useful plug-ins) over at the Photographer’s Toolbox (be sure to check out the installation guide for your operating system as it is different for each). By not as pretty, I mean the resulting image will just contain the settings information without any cool graphics along with each item, but if that is sufficient for your needs, then read on …

Configuring Lr/Mogrify 2

With LR/Mogrify installed you will find a new section, named Lr/Mogrify 2, has been added to the Export dialog below where export presets are stored. Within this section are all the options you can configure using this plug-in as part of your export workflow. In this example, we’ll utilize the options for Text Annotations primarily, though I did also add an Inner Border to create the opaque effect for making the text more legible and this is where you can customize to fit your needs.

Note: If you get an error message using LR/Mogrify on Mac, check out this post on the Adobe forum for a simple fix.

To start, select a photo to export and click the Export button to open the Export dialog (if not already open). Then, configure the desired export settings for sharing your photo, such as an sRGB JPG at a given pixel dimension (in my case I chose 1080 pixels on the long edge). We’ll come back to the Export location options in a bit.

Now, double-click the Text Annotations option under the Lr/Mogrify section to add it to the Export panels. Here you can choose a font, color, font size, font opacity, and position. This controls how the text will look on the image. You can see my settings below, but you might want to tweak to work best for your needs (also based on the size of your exported photo). Here’s where the magic part comes in, the Text Annotation feature can utilize tokens representing different metadata fields and pull that data into the text in the exported copy. In my example, I added the tokens for aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focal length, camera model, and lens.

That’s the basics of displaying the same information as Photo Summary will display, but you can add more or even less based on your needs. Next, I double-clicked the Inner Border option to add that to the panel for the purpose of placing a partially opaque layer over the photo to make the text more readable. In Photo Summary you have an option for a blurred version of the photo with the text overlayed, but we can’t do that here, so this is my version of that. I set the Width to 100% on all 4 sides and set to 20% opacity.

Once configured, I suggest giving it a few test runs to dial in the settings for the text that works best for the size of your photo. Once you have the text looking the way you want, I decided to export these copies to a subfolder within the source folder and in the same move add them to the catalog. I also opted to rename the exported copies with the photo info by appending -info to the end of the file name.

I also have the Post-Processing step set to Show in Finder so a Finder window opens with the copies at the end of the export, which is totally optional. That’s really all there is to it. If you like this, then click the Add button and save that as an export preset.

To get a copy of just the photo to go with the photo summary I created a second preset with all the same settings with the following exceptions:

• I removed all of the LR/Mogrify options
• I changed the rename option to simply keep the original filename without -info on the end

This way I can create a copy of the photo that is the same size and settings to the same location as the photo summary version. Then save that as an export preset too. Here’s the really cool part! Once you have those export presets created you can select a single photo and apply both export presets in the same export process. Check out my article on Batch Export to see how.

The post Create a Photo Summary in Lightroom Classic Export appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Next Month, I’m Speaking in the UK at “The Photography Show”

It’s the biggest and the best, and I’m super psyched to be speaking there once again. It’s just six weeks away. I have a 20% off discount ticket code you can use (it’s SPKTPS24), but if you’re a working pro, you might be able to get in free (they have some stipulations, but if you meet the requirements, you’re in free). Here’s the link for more details. Hope I see you there!

The iPhone Photography Conference 2024 is Almost Here.

We’re thrilled to bring you a fresh lineup of brand-new sessions for this year, along with cutting-edge iPhone photography techniques and tips that will elevate your iPhone photography experience. It’s a two-day, two-track

Join us for this 2-day extravaganza and capture the extraordinary—same passion, new techniques, and a whole lot of fun! Register early and save $150! More details and tickets (get yours today), at kelbyonelive.com

OK, no football this weekend, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be football food, so…well..there’s that. At least my team is guaranteed not to lose this weekend. Have a great weekend!

-Scott

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First Steps

The first thing you need to do if you want to explore this option is enable syncing between your Lightroom Classic catalog and Lightroom. Luckily, I’ve already covered all the steps to get started syncing between these two apps. You’ll even find in that previously linked tutorial the steps to follow to set up Lightroom on your mobile device. Once you’ve completed those steps you’re ready for the next step.

Sync Photos to Lightroom

The cool part about this aspect of syncing from Lightroom Classic to Lightroom is that it will only upload a smart preview to be stored in the Lightroom cloud and smart previews do not count against your cloud storage limit. This makes it super easy to continue managing your entire photo library in Lightroom Classic, and then only sync certain photos to the Lightroom cloud for sharing purposes without any additional cost. The other cool thing about smart previews is that they are limited to being no more than 2560 pixels on the long side, which makes them plenty large enough for sharing to social media.

Now that you’ve established this synced connection between Lightroom Classic and Lightroom, you can follow all the same steps I outlined for cropping photos to a desired aspect ratio based on the social media destination you are using. The only difference is that instead of exporting them out of Lightroom Classic you simply add them to a synced collection, which automatically uploads the smart preview versions with all Lightroom Classic settings to the Lightroom cloud. Since all the settings are synced as well you can even modify those settings from within Lightroom later if needed.

Share from Lightroom

Once the photo(s) have finished syncing and become available in Lightroom (from either a phone or tablet running iOS or Android), you just select the photo and tap the Share icon to start the sharing process. These screen captures are from Lightroom on an iPhone (apologies if the steps are different on Android, but I welcome any clarity in the comments).

When the sharing options appear, you can tap the settings icon next to Share to… to configure file type, dimensions, image quality, and output sharpening.

Once configured, tap the checkmark to accept those settings and return to sharing options. Now, tap the Share to… icon to access all of the output options. The icons/options that appear will vary with what you have installed on your system.

Long press on the Instagram icon and choose Open in app to get the full Instagram upload experience.

This will send your photo to the Instagram app where you can complete the process just as you would if you had opened Instagram directly and chosen a photo from your camera roll. Your photo is then shared to the world. You can use that same workflow for sharing to other social media platforms, as well as sending as text message or whatever other output options you have on your mobile device. Happy sharing!

The post Another Way to Share to Social Media from Lightroom Classic appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

The workflow for sharing to social media is very similar to the steps I outlined for exporting copies at different print sizes except instead of focusing on print sizes in inches we are concerned about display sizes in pixel dimensions. File type and color space are just as important as when exporting for printing, so we’ll pay attention to those settings as well.

Also, just like when preparing photos for printing the aspect ratio of the photo before you export is also the key to getting the exact pixel dimensions for best display results on your desired social media site, and the specific aspect ratio will vary with each site and possibly with the orientation of your photo (landscape vs. portrait orientation).

Controlling aspect ratio and file size

Instagram, like other social media sites are inundated with a constant stream of new photos, and as they are storing all of those photos take steps to manage that stream of data. The primary means for controlling file sizes in terms of bytes is to set limits on the maximum allowed pixel dimensions of each photo and to use a common means of compressing data in the form of JPG compression. So, in order for us to have our photos look their best in this process it is in our best interest to crop our photos to the desired aspect ratio, then configure the export dialog to resize the pixel dimensions to no more than that maximum dimension, and then reduce the file size by using the JPG file format and a reasonable Quality slider setting to reduce the file size of the exported copy. Here are the steps:

Step One: Crop to the optimal aspect ratio for your social media destination. For most social media sites the optimal image sizes tend to remain constant over time. Sure, they may eventually evolve as screen resolutions evolve, but this happens slowly. Just do a search for “best photo size for [insert social media here]” and you’ll likely find the site in question (in this case Instagram) has published that information.

For Instagram, there are three aspect ratios to consider for sharing photos in regular posts. There’s square (1:1), portrait (4:5), and landscape (1.91:1). An aspect ratio is simply a way of expressing the relationship between the width and height of an image. So, whether your source photo is portrait or landscape to start with, you can choose to crop to any of these three aspect ratios for displaying the photo on Instagram letting your own taste and the content of the photo dictate which aspect ratio you think is best.

For the sake of an example, I’ll use a photo in landscape orientation and crop it to the 1.91:1 aspect ratio to keep it in that orientation. To do that in LrC I’d select the photo and press R to jump to the Crop tool. Then, click the Aspect drop-down menu and choose Enter Custom (assuming you’ve never cropped a photo a 1.91:1 aspect ratio before so it would not show in the list of previous custom aspect ratios). This will open a popup dialog where you enter your desired aspect ratio.

Then, using your own photographic sensibilities, maintain the aspect ratio by ensuring the lock icon is locked, adjust the crop handles to create the best cropped version of your photo. When cropping, I like to press the L key twice to cycle into Lights Out mode to better see the finished version of the crop.

Now wait, you may be thinking that is a pretty severe crop from the original 3:2 aspect ratio, and you’d be right. This is where you need to decide if you want your photo to fill the viewing area on instagram or do you want to have a border around the uncropped photo. There is no one right answer for everyone, and I know plenty of photographers who would not ever crop a photo in post production if it was at all possible to avoid, and that’s fine. I’m not saying you should crop every photo, I’m just showing you how to conform to Instagram’s display size. For the sake of this example I’ll accept the crop and now I’m ready for the next step.

Step Two: Export a copy with the optimal settings for the intended destination. With your cropped (or uncropped) photo selected, click the Export button (File > Export) and configure the Export dialog for location of saved copy, file type, color space, image sizing, and (optional) sharpening. The important settings are choosing JPG for file type, sRGB for color space, and setting the long side to 1080 pixels for landscape and square photos or 1350 pixels for portrait (by setting the long side the short side will be resized proportionally so we don’t have to worry about that).

The one area where there seems to be differences in opinion is the value of the Quality slider for JPG compression. In some simple tests I exported copies at 100 Quality and at 77 and then uploaded to Instagram. The file sizes of the ones at 100 were obviously much larger than the ones at 77 straight out of LrC, but the file size of all the copies I downloaded from Instagram after they went through Instagram’s compression were all the same. I compared the various copies downloaded from Instagram and there were very slight visual differences between the highest quality versions and the lower quality versions, but honestly, I had to look at them at 300% magnification to really see the differences. That said, if Instagram is going to compress them all down to the same size I figure I may as well upload the highest quality I can and let it go. Feel free to do your own tests.

Once you’re happy with the settings for landscape and square photos then I would recommend saving that as a preset for reuse in the future. Then, simply change the setting for the long side to 1350 pixels and save that as a preset for portrait orientation photos. A strong case could be made to only ever export photos cropped to the 4:5 aspect ratio as that makes them display as large as possible in the Instagram feed, and if you want your photos noticed, that can make a difference. You just need to decide a) if you want to crop your photos, and b) what aspect ratio makes the most impact and suits your aesthetic.

We can upload photos through our web browsers directly to Instagram now, so if that suits your workflow, open a web browser, log into Instagram, and upload. That said, with Instagram being primarily designed for mobile consumption, there is an argument to be made that photos uploaded through a mobile device may look better than those uploaded from desktop. You can follow my steps for using a cloud service to easily transfer your exported copies to your mobile device to test that theory, or next week we’ll look at another route for sharing photos from Lightroom Classic. See you then!

The post Sharing to Social Media from Lightroom Classic appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Before, before we take this Genie out of the bottle, just a quick heads up: I am super excited to be one of the speakers again at the 8th Annual B&H Photo OPTIC conference (called OPTIC 2022 – It’s a conference for outdoor, wildlife, travel photography, and post-processing), and after a couple of years of doing it virtually, this year they are doing a hybrid event where it’s your choice – you can go and be there live in person as it happens at the New Yorker Hotel in Manhattan, or you can catch the conference online online, but here’s the best part – all you have to do is RSVP and tell ’em you’re coming (and, of course, choose in person or online). Registration is free. That’s it. You’re in. You get access to all the classes and goodies. Boom. Done. You should go RSVP right now (what do you have to lose?) – it’s going to be an incredible event.

OK, onto why I don’t convert my Raw images to DNG:

I’m going to try and keep this as short and sweet as possible, but it’s important to note up front — I’m not telling you-you shouldn’t be converting your RAW files to the DNG format — I’m just telling you I’m not, and I stopped doing it a while back. Here’s why:

Converting to DNG in Lightroom takes time, I don’t get much benefit back from taking that extra time and so for me and my workflow, it just doesn’t make sense.

None of the big three camera makers adopted the .DNG format
Only a handful of smaller companies did, so it never really caught on like it would have if they had all gotten on board. I don’t share files with other users where I need to keep my RAW edits intact when sharing the original RAW file with another user (see this article), so combining the .XMP file and the RAW original into one single file isn’t a benefit to me (I don’t work with XMP files that often to begin with). Plus, if I did convert to DNG for that reason, it takes longer to re-save the entire DNG file over again each time you make a change than it is to just save changes to a .xmp text file, which happens very quickly in comparison. It’s that wasting time thing again.

Am I concerned that one day I won’t be able to open my existing native RAW files created by the camera companies?
Not at all. At the time Adobe created the DNG spec, it was probably a legit concern, but these days a 12-year-old could probably write a RAW converter during study hall, so I don’t sweat it.

I know there are a handful of other pros of using DNG, but there are just as many cons. Maybe more.
I’m happy with where I’m at —  working faster, not wasting time on import converting to DNG, and I still sleep well at night. Something to think about, anyway.

Hope you have a great weekend, and we’ll catch you next week

-Scott

P.S. A few years back, one of my readers, Reid J. Thaler, did a really informative write up on why he doesn’t use DNG, and he posted it as a comment here on the blog. Here’s what he wrote:

FROM REID J. THALER:
I teach Lightroom and few years ago, I put together my own David Letterman style of “The Top Ten Reason Not to Convert Your Images to DNG Files”

1. Precludes you from using OEM software You will never be able to use your camera manufacture’s software again. Ever. Features that are specific to certain cameras (like Nikon’s Active D-Lighting and Picture Control) are not supported in the DNG format. Do you really think that Adobe knows everything that’s in every proprietary RAW file format it supports?

2. Backing up images will take longer In Lightroom, many of the changes you make can be stored in small XMP sidecar files that accompany raw files, and are only a few kilobytes. When you convert to DNG, changes are made directly to the file, so when you back up your images (hopefully daily) the whole file, typically 20 MB or more, needs to be backed up instead of just the small XMP sidecar files.

3. Metadata can’t be read by other software XMP data, including keywords, stars, and metadata that you may have changed in Lightroom is not available if you want to use another program that can read XMP sidecar files but not DNG files.

4. Longer downloading times from your memory card If you convert images to DNG upon importing to Lightroom, processing times increase since Lightroom must import and convert all the files to DNG.

5. File sizes One argument is that DNG file sizes are more efficient and can be up to 20% smaller. In 1956, the first IBM Model 350 hard drive weighed over a ton, cost $329,928 (in 2014 dollars) annually to lease, and stored 3.75 MB of data. It would have taken over 20 of them to hold a single Nikon D810 (36 MP) 14-bit RAW image file. Today, a 3 TB hard drive (formatted) holds the equivalent of 725,333 of the Model 350 hard drive and costs $100. The equivalent storage capacity, using the IBM Model 350 hard drive, would cost $14.9 billion to lease the same capacity (not to mention the 11.6 million square feet to store them, or the cost of electricity to run them. I’m not concerned about the size of native RAW files!

6. Load times DNG files supposedly load faster in the Develop module. With faster processors and Smart Previews, RAW files load very quickly in the Develop module even from an external drive USB 3.0 drive.

7. Ability to read RAW file in the future. One of the other main arguments in favor of converting to DNG files is that if a camera manufacturer stops producing software that can read their RAW files, then their RAW files would be unreadable. I don’t think Nikon, Canon, or Sony are going away anytime soon, and even if they were, you could use their software to read their files. Worst case, you could always convert them to DNG.

8. DNG is not an industry standard, it’s Adobe’s standard. As much as Adobe would love the DNG format to become the industry standard, it’s not. It’s Adobe’s standard. While a few camera manufactures produce camera the shoot DNG file as their native RAW files, most do not. DNG requires a lifelong allegiance to Adobe.

9. Camera brand not easily identified. Converting all your files to DNG makes it harder to quickly identify the camera manufacturer when looking at the file name since the suffix will be a generic DNG, and not one associated with your camera.

10. No obvious benefit. For all the reasons touting the DNG format, perhaps the biggest reason not to convert is that there is no obvious benefit. DNG files don’t contain more information (maybe less), are negligibly smaller, don’t load appreciably faster, take longer to download because the must be converted, and ties you to Adobe forever! They simply are, understandably, a greater benefit to Adobe than you, and have not been embraced as a standard format.

The post Why I Don’t Convert My Raw Images To DNG appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Adobe Creative Cloud

I assume most people reading this blog are subscribers to one of the Creative Cloud plans, and if so, included with your plan is at least 20GB of cloud storage. Not much, but certainly enough for the occasional JPG you might want to send to someone via email. This also assumes you’ve installed the Creative Cloud application manager, which should create a local folder named Creative Cloud Files, whose contents are kept in-sync with the storage you have in the cloud.

Configure the Export dialog based on the desired file settings, but in the Destination panel, click the Choose button and navigate to that Creative Cloud Files folder on your system. If you’re not sure where that is, open the Creative Cloud Application manager, click on Your Files, then click Open Sync Folder to open your system’s file browser to its location on your drive. I created a subfolder called Email Attachments, but you can use what ever folder name you want.

Once you’ve configured the Destination panel to save the exported copy to your Creative Cloud Files folder, as well as the image specific settings for this export job, click the Add button to save the export settings as a preset you can reuse again the future.

Once that is done, click Export to save the copy to the synced folder. Syncing should be automatic and relatively quick for small JPG files. While that is syncing, open your web browser to https://assets.adobe.com/files (log in, if not already) and then click into the subfolder you created for this type of export.

Click the three dot menu under the photo when you place your cursor over it and choose Get link to open the pop-up for configuring sharing options.

Click the Copy link button to copy the link to that photo to your clipboard. You can now paste that into an email to send to your desired recipient. They won’t need to be logged into an Adobe account to view or download the photo. Keep in mind that this will count toward your total Adobe cloud storage allotment, so be prepared to delete files from that folder after they are no longer needed in the cloud to conserve your storage. For this reason, and others, I prefer to use other cloud storage options.

Other Cloud Services

While the Creative Cloud storage comes with your subscription it may be limited in amount and even functionality. I prefer using a service called Dropbox which functions the same basic way except you can pay for more storage (though they do have free options too). I use the Dropbox Plus subscription at $9.99/month for 2TB of storage because I use it for so much more than just for email attachments. I love how integrated it is into my operating system. OneDrive from Microsoft is another popular option, and if you have an Office subscription you likely have 1TB of OneDrive storage at your disposal. Like Dropbox, OneDrive is a bit more integrated into your operating system and can be better for sharing larger numbers of large files.

Whichever service you use (and there are others too), you would configure the Export dialog the same as I did for Creative Cloud files except you would choose the synced folder for the service you are using instead. When I use Dropbox or OneDrive I also configure the Post-processing section of the Export dialog to Show in Finder/Explorer so that my file browser opens to the export folder at the end of the process where it is easy to right-click the files and grab the share link right from there to paste into an email, text message, or however I am sharing the link.

Whichever option you choose you no longer have to worry about how large your files are when sharing because all the recipient does is click a link and view or download the files directly.

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